Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Chapter Twelve: Tapas - A Chapter Unto Itself o La Noche en Tascas



So while I've already discussed food and the Spanish meal schedule, I haven't discussed one of the culinary aspects Spain is known for - tapas. Basically tapas are small dishes that you have, usually for dinner, while enjoying a nice drink. The tapas atmosphere is really informal, with people usually cramming into bars and throwing their trash on the floor, but it has a friendly vibe. Larger size tapas are known as "raciones" and in País Vasco, tapas are known as "pintxos," cause obviously the Basques couldn't do the same thing as the Spaniards.



Typically, people buy a few tapas to share and just have small portions of each dish. This is actually a pretty excellent way of eating and gives you a taste of things without weighing you down like a 7 course lunch meal. Plus, when you're splitting cheap $2 to $7 tapas between a lot of people, the bill is quite cheap. People usually take tapas strolls from building to building, keeping the evening moving, but I kind of like just staying at one establishment - if the tapas are alright - and enjoying it there.



What's interesting about tapas is that tapas restaurants - tascas - run the gamut in terms of style. There are super grimy hole in the wall bars, but there are also the more sophisticated sit-down restaurants with a smaller bar area. No matter which end of the style spectrum the tasca is at, it will be crowded if it's a good one. Plus, even with the best elegant tapas restaurants, the tapas dishes rarely go over $7, so it's easy to tell if you're being overcharged. I haven't tried a real tapas bar yet in the U.S., but I have a feeling that when I do it will probably be overpriced and a little pretentious in its taste and atmosphere. What's great about the tascas here is that while they serve some of the best Spanish food I've had yet, it still hasn't gotten too pretentious or touristy (although for some locals I'm sure it has). Every night at the best tascas you'll find a crowd mixed with younger adults and senior citizens, casually enjoying a fine variety of Spanish cuisine.



So, since I've laid out the basic idea of tapas, I think I'll include a list of some of my favorite tapas and where I've had them - just cities because I'm not giving away my tascas recommendations for free.

1. Solomillo de Ternera con Cebolla Caramelizada, Sevilla
This is from one of the classier tascas, and it's a finely cooked - but still medium to rare - steak with caramelized onions and salt on the side for dipping.

2. Brocheta de Gambas, San Sebastian
A nice shrimp on a skewer, served on a piece of bread. It's a little more simple than some of the upscale tapas places, but a delicious taste from País Vasco.

3. Surtido de Queso, Madrid
Just going to a cheese stall at one of Madrid's markets is a great call where you can pick up a few Spanish cheeses to try.

4. Risotto de Idiazabal, Sevilla
A beautiful sheep cheese risotto that is basically the thinking man's mac and cheese.

5. Pimiento con Atún, San Sebastian or Atún con Tomate y Cebollitas, Sevilla
So pretty much any tuna dish in Spain is worthwhile, but combining red peppers with tuna brings it to this list. In this case, the pepper was filled with tuna, but another delicious traditional dish is cooked tuna with red peppers on top. The "Atún con Tomate" dish included tomatoes and onions rather than peppers and was further proof that Spanish tuna is where it's at.

6. Lomo de Salmón Fresco a la plancha con guacamole, Sevilla
An excellent salmon dish with the added bonus of being served with guacamole.

7. Brocheta de Ternera, San Sebastian
A steak on a skewer with an excellent sauce, on top of a piece of bread. As with the brocheta de gambas, simple but delicious.



Aside from these specific delicacies, a few tapas are safe and delicious no matter where you go in Spain.

1. Tortilla Española
Basically a potato omelet, it's split into pie sized pieces and is a delicious substitute for bread. It's a Spanish specialty, so it's pretty safe to have these anywhere in the country.

2. Croquetas
A breaded and fried ball of cheese, usually mixed with ham. I've enjoyed just the plain cheese or ham and cheese croquetas, but having a bacalao (cod) filled croqueta has also been interesting.

3. Champiñones al ajillo
Mushrooms served in a garlic sauce. While I'm not a huge mushroom fan, if the chef has the right balance between mushroom and garlic, it can be quite nice.

4. Patatas alioli
Fried potatoes with a garlic mayonnaise sauce, they're a delicious side dish and I like them better than "Patatas bravas," which are fried potatoes in a hotter sauce.


5. Montaditos
Small sandwiches, filled with whatever is around. I usually like them filled with tuna, but the chain Cervecería de Cien Montaditos fills them with just about anything including Tortilla Española, shrimp, and Jamón Ibérico, Spain's ham specialty. I'm not a huge ham fan, but it's still required to try while visiting.


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